Jacopo Olmo

Sanchez-Kane Fall/Winter 2018

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Sanchez-Kane

Fall/Winter 2018

Designer Barbara Sanchez-Kane is on a mission of sexual liberation with the newest collection for her eponymous line Sanchez-Kane.  For Fall/Winter 2018 she continues breaking hetero-normative gender rules and this season tackels the taboos that surround the topic of sex.  With her signature use of unconventional textiles and a diverse cast of models, Sanchez-Kane went full speed on the sexual express with giant penises as runway decor and jock strap clad performance artists dancing among them.  Paper Magazine’s Mickey Boardman sat front and center as did DJ, Matthew Mazur and model, Jacopo Olmo

Paper Magazine's,  Mickey Boardman.

Paper Magazine's,  Mickey Boardman.

DJ,  Matthew Mazur.

DJ,  Matthew Mazur.

Using a mixed palette of colors and fabrics, the fall collection is heavy in outerwear and provocative shirting including script-flipping pectoral cutouts and a flip-fop sandal tank.  By reworking suit jackets and trench coats and playing with proportion, the designer made bold statements with abdomen cutouts and exaggerated lapel embellishments.  Perhaps the boldest statement made on the runway was not a garment but a model shattering his porcelain piggy-bank penis at the end of the runway.  Making a statement of female empowerment and saying goodbye to societal pressures to mask sex and how we have it.       

Model,  Jacopo Olmo.

Model,  Jacopo Olmo.

Images and Video by Jim Duran.

#NYFWM: Gypsy Sport

In the few years since Rio Uribe launched Gypsy Sport he has seen a meteoric rise to success within the closely guarded walls of New York's fashion community.  From showing his debut Spring 2015 collection in Washington Square Park to becoming a 2015 winner of the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, his is truly a fashion fairy tale. Last week Uribe presented his Spring/Summer 2017 collection at the Cadillac House during New York Fashion Week: Men's and took his line to literal proportions. Uribe's sport theme collection was delivered just in time for the Olympics but we are more likely to see these duds on the dance floor instead of the playing field. Track suits and oversized jerseys embellished with tiered lace and non-stop fringe rolled down the runway. The black mesh football jersey with endless fringe accents made for the champion club kid going long into the night. The NBA logo received a cultural make-over in the form the Ankh cross which is an Egyptian symbol for the "joy of life" and represents males and females alike. This might have been Uribe's clever way to reinforce the gender non-specific nature of his Spring 2017 all-star line up. Fashion "IT" boy Jacopo Olmo walked in the show as well as menswear favorite Marc Luloh. Admittedly this collection took a minute for me to understand but now I see the subtle and playful cultural nuances and I love it!  

Jim Duran

Photos courtesy of Gypsy Sport